Sunday, January 8, 2017

South Rim of the Chisos

As part of my spring trip to Big Bend I had planned to do an overnight backpack to the south rim of the Chisos.  The south rim is high in the back country and sits about 2000' over the desert below.

I wanted to camp there on the rim and photograph, sunset, the Milky Way and the sunrise from the rim.

Many people day hike the rim from the Basin, but is is 14-17 miles depending on the route.  We planned to spend the night in SW4 which is very close to the rim.  Now for an overnight in the Chisos Mountains, we planned on carrying two gallons of water each.  That was for being gone just 24 hours.  We hit the trail about 1030am, hiked, camped, photographed, and hiked out getting back to the trailhead at 1030 the next day.  We came back empty.  

Bivy Sack and Sleeping Bag
Now 2 gallons of water is 17 pounds.  That was the bulk of my weight carried.  It was heavy going up but gone going down.

The 7 miles to SW4 took about 3 hours.  We are strong hikers and made it there with a few breaks.  It stayed clear and with the dry desert air we drank a lot of water.

At camp, I set up my bivy sack and sleeping bag.  On these single night trips, I forego a tent and carry the much lighter (and smaller) bivy sack.  Some people might just sleep on the ground, but this is Texas.  Between, snakes, scorpions, skeeters, and ticks, I want netting between me and them.  The bivy has that, although there is little room in them.

We watched the sun go down, had supper, drank water to stay hydrated and fell asleep looking up at the stars above.

South Rim Sunset
I was up about 0330.  It was chilly.  I put on my jacket, grabbed the gear and went to the rim.  The Milky Way was shining over the sky.  I set up along the rim and made shot after shot.  I did some light painting and then some without.

The vast distance is so dark, I might be on the edge of the planet staring off into space.

As the dawn approached I prepped for sunrise.  There were still basically no clouds and I did what I could with the light I had.

It was still amazing to watch.

After that it was back to camp, a granola bar, a liter of water and then packed up for the trip down.  We were on the trail about 0845 and in the parking lot at 1030.  Just in time for lunch in the lodge in the Basin.  A plate of enchiladas and a big glass of water!

What a way to end the trip!

Friday, December 23, 2016

2016 Year in Review

A review of my photography year for 2016.  This marks the fourth year in a row I have done a Year in Review.  You can check out my past YIR for 2013, 2014, and 2015 here Year in Review

2016 has been a very good year for me in photography.  I have gotten to see some great light, experience some wonderful dark skies, saw the aurora for the first time, and finally got a stamp in my passport!

The year in photography always starts for me going out for sunrise on January 1.  It is a tradition I started in 2000 and shows no sign of ending.  I have yet to get a great image at sunrise on January 1 but that has never bothered me.  Just getting up to greet the sunrise on New Years Day has become one of my favorite traditions.

January saw me out photographing locally and it also took me to Salt Lake City.  There I got to catch a sunset and sunrise on Antelope Island in the Great Salt Lake.  What a super location.  Just a 30 minutes drive from downtown SLC and you are on an island that with snow looks very, very far away from anywhere.  Almost other worldly.  In a way the water, ice, and snowy peaks looked like something almost polar.  Add in seeing a few bison and it was a great winter experience.

February and March had me photographing locally.  February marks the start of Milky Way photography season as the galactic core becomes visible again.  In February it is just for a few minutes right before dawn and I have been visiting a spot on the Brazos River where I can see it rising in the east.

March also took me to San Diego and San Bernardino.  It was not a photography trip and the traffic in So Cal is so bad I was never able to get to the mountains, when I got to La Jolla I was able to get out to see one sunset with the waves crashing on the rocky coastline.  It turned out to be a good sunset and made up for a few days of traffic frustration.

April brings bluebonnets to Texas and I spent a few days in search of wildflowers and sunrises.  The clouds did not cooperate on most of my drives but finally I did catch one very good sunrise and added another good bluebonnet picture to my collection.

I also did a trip to New Mexico and west Texas.  A quick visit to the Guadalupe Mountains.  Followed by a night on the Lost Mesa specifically for a Milky Way image.  Yes, I planned a trip and a drive of hundreds of miles for one image.  Then I drove down to Big Bend to spend a week in the desert.  I planned this trip for the new moon and am glad I did as we had little in the way of good light and lots of clear sky.  It made from some good changes for the Milky Way.

In Big Bend, I also did an overnight backpack to the South Rim of the Chisos.  Two gallons of water weighs about 17 pounds and I had to carry that much for just an overnight.  Well worth the weight as I was able to sit on the rim and stare off into the distance.

May took me on a trip to the Grand Canyon and Zion National Parks.  These are both very popular parks (for good reason).  I did a few hikes and caught an incredible sunrise at the Grand Canyon that made the trip.  I was also able to get a few Milky Way images from the Grand Canyon that I really liked.  I had wanted to see what my Sony A7S could do with the dark of the canyon and as always it came through with some great images.  On a no moon night, the canyon is normally too dark to be anything more than black on an image, but the might little A7S sees in the dark!  In Zion I did get in a few hikes, but did not get to wade the Narrows as the river was too high from spring snow melt.

As summer heated up I turn my attention to night photography.  Texas in the summer is hot, green and usually very clear skies.  I then plan new moon trips out to photograph the Milky Way.  I spent many summer nights out wading in the Nolan River chasing the Milky Way.  Standing there in water in the dark looking at the stars is fun.  If I get lucky I also see some lightening bugs.

Late summer I was in Ohio and went to to explore the Hocking Hills area south of Columbus.  Some great areas of dells, creeks, hills and small waterfalls.  Made for a great evening to get out with my camera in a completely new area.  This was one of those times I was not really on a photography trip but as I seem to always do, I took my little NEX6 kit with tiny Sirui 025x tripod which gives me a great travel kit so I can get some good images in a place.

Summer always seems such a long slow season here in Texas then fall just goes very quick.  Labor Day always marks the start of camping season for me as it begins to cool down at night.  I start chasing fall color, do some travel, and before you know it Christmas is here.   
September had me off to Wyoming for a week.  I put together a solo trip into Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks.  I timed it for the new moon and went specifically to get in some Milky Way photography in both parks.  I had several images planned.  The parks are beginning to shut down then and a few campgrounds were already closed but I was still able to see sights I wanted to see.  I caught an epic sunset in Yellowstone followed by a couple of nights where I stood out by thermal features in the dark with the Milky Way
shining above.  I even caught some bright green on the northern horizon.  It was my first siting of the northern lights!  Yellowstone at night was better than I could have thought!  Two nights was nowhere near enough and I know I need to go back.  The Tetons were also super for night photography.  In September the Milky Way is already in the southwest right after dark allowing me to get some great views of the Tetons with the Milky Way.  Now in neither park did I see a bear.  I had my bear spray and standing out there in the dark alone, I am always cautious and alert but no bears this trip.

I was only home a week from Wyoming in Early October and then was off to Alaska!  I had a week to visit Juneau and Anchorage.  This was my second trip to Alaska and it remains as fantastic as I remember it.  This was my first trip to Juneau and I got to see the Mendenhall Glacier.  It is just a few miles from town and is a short walk.  One of the things I hoped to see on the trip was the aurora.  After seeing a glimpse of them on the far horizon, I was hoping to see them in the sky above me.  Two clear nights in Juneau and nothing.

After making the hop upto Anchorage I was also hoping to see them but again there was nothing. We would drive out north of Wasilla around 10pm and look and look but nothing.  Finally one morning I was up about 0400, walked outside and saw the whole sky was dancing green with the aurora.

It was an incredible sight.

I stayed up the rest of that night taking images.  Alaska had wow'd me again. I am already giving thought to going to back to Alaska or Iceland in winter to photograph them again.

Late October saw me depart for one more trip.  I had been building my entire year around one trip and after what seemed like an eternity I boarded a flight to Scotland!  Like many people I have a list of "someday I will go there" places.  After years of thinking about those kind of trips, I decided to do one, got a plane ticket and went.  The Scottish Highlands is a place that has always fascinated me and so I built the trip around it.  Two weeks camping in the Highlands in the cold, wind and rain.  It was another solo trip as everyone thought I was crazy going then.

I loved it.  

It rained every day.  I only saw the stars twice.  I was very glad to have Gore-Tex boots as it was muddy, wet, mucky ground everywhere.  I ate porridge, fish+ chips, and scones a lot.  I camped by a haunted castle for Halloween.  

Rather than try to see it all, I picked four areas in the Highlands: Glencoe, Isle of Skye, Torridon and Assynt.  I spent about 3 days in each location.  That allowed me to explore some different areas and see some different sights.  If anything, I wanted an additional day in each area.  

All fours areas had great sights as well as castles to see.  While I am a landscape photographer, I am also fascinated by history and intrigued by castles.  So I visited several including photographing a supposedly haunted one on Halloween night.  No ghosts seen.

The mountains, rivers and waterfalls were a sight to see.

I am still looking through all the images.

It was an incredible trip and I know I will be going back again.

After a few months of travel, I spent the remaining few weeks of the year close to to home chasing fall color in north Texas.  I was afraid I would miss it this year while I was in the UK but it was a few weeks late.  I got some good days along the Trinity River, in our Japanese Garden and on drives south of Cowtown.

I sit here typing this on December 23rd (Festivus!!) planning a few last days of photography for 2016.  I will be out on Jan 1 again to welcome 2017.  I am also already putting dates and locations on the calendar for next year.  Places like Zion, Bryce, Big Bend, and maybe even Iceland.

Thankful for the what I was able to do in 2016.  Looking forward to the new year and new opportunities!

Happy Holidays and the best for the New Year!

Tuesday, December 20, 2016

Big Bend Ranch- Closed Canyon

Check out my new You Tube video on photographing and exploring Closed Canyon in Big Bend Ranch State Park in west Texas.

This is a location that gets regular visits on my trips to the Big Bend country and is a great place to visit in the middle of the day and watch the light bounce down the canyon walls.  It really reminds me of what you might find in Utah.  If you look back through this blog you will find several entries from here over the years.

If you keep your eyes and ears alert in the canyon, you might even see barbary sheep up on the cliffs above.

It is a very good hike and worth adding to a trip in the Big Bend.

See more images from here in my website and look for me on Google+.

Sunday, October 2, 2016

Big Bend- Desert Nightscapes

There is something amazing about nights in Big Bend National Park.  The clear desert air with the dark west Texas sky make for some amazing night skies.  Add in the interesting mountains and landscape it it really is a great place to photograph at night.  

When I am looking for a spot for night images, I need a spot that has something interesting like a mountain, rock, etc that I can use as a foreground.  It is different than what you look for in the daytime.  At night, you really need a good (large) object to add an element.  Flat and small, does not work too well.  Then you need to have an angle of view that matches up to where the Milky Way will be in the sky.

Luckily Big Bend has plenty of mountains and rocks so I can easily pick different spots for different times of the year and match up when the Milky Way will be in the right spot of the sky.

The deserts of Big Bend has an interesting volcanic geologic history with an amazing landscape of of volcanic peaks, cores, rocks, ridges, and pinnacles.  I have several areas I like to visit and on my spring trip, I had the chance to see many of them with clear sky.  The Milky Way rises in the east about 330 in the morning so I could catch it low on the eastern horizon and photograph until daylight turned the sky light.

For the first part of the trip I was in the western side of the park and worked the old volcanic core and tuff found there.  I visited the area on two mornings.  I also worked some nearby volcanic peaks where I was able to capture the arc of the Milky Way over them.

Later in the trip, we made the move over to the north side of the Chisos where there are a great many pinnacles and a balanced rock.  I did go to the rock, which is the  main draw, but also got my best shots of the rocky pinnacles in the valley below it.

Over the week, I was able to get many nice night images from various places around the park and was quite pleased with the trip.  Of course, as I type this in the fall, I am already thinking of when I will next get a chance to visit and photograph the dark sky there again.

Monday, August 22, 2016

Unknown Slot Canyons in Big Bend

Big Bend is a truly majestic national park.  It is big, empty, and full of incredible scenery.  I have been visiting the park for over 25 years on numerous trips.  Of late it has been two to three trips per year to the park.

You might think that after all this time I would be bored with it, but it is really the opposite.  Every trip to the park I find something new.

Over my last few trips, I have been looking for out of the way places- here are a couple of them.

A couple of years ago, I was looking at Google Earth and found what looked like a little slot canyon.  I went exploring on my next trip and sure enough, it was!

I have visited that canyon a few times now and really like it.  

It is shallow and it has both narrow and wide spots.  At times the sun shines right through it.  Other times It gets nice reflected light.

I even ventured into it at Night one time to photograph the Milky Way from it.

It has become a favorite place to visit and this last spring, it was a place I spent a few hours one afternoon.

On another clear afternoon, I went exploring further in the area.  I knew that the rock in the area could form little slots so I wanted to see what I might find.

Imagine my thrill to find another one!

This one was very narrow and not even thirty feet long before it reached a pour-off.  However what it lacked in size it made up for in narrowness and charm.

I made my way in and set up a couple of photographs to capture the light.

Finding these off the map and unknown spots is always fun.  Having a spot that no one else has photographed is rewarding and so different then being at an overlook with 500 people like you get in the busier parks.

Being at the end of the road, Big Bend probably sees fewer people in a year than Grand Canyon gets on Memorial Day weekend.  It means a park I can have to myself and being able to find spots like these.

Thursday, August 4, 2016

Night on the Lost Mesa

In the spring of the year I made a trip to west Texas and New Mexico.  It was a chance to get out west for a week of dark sky and some landscape photography.  My first stop was to make the drive out to the Lost Mesa.  I have wanted to get there for a shot at the spring Milky Way for sometime and decided to make that the start of a longer trip into the Big Bend country.

If you have read any of my other  Blog posts on the Lost Mesa you will find out what a lonely and quiet place this is.  Roughly 1.2 million acres of mostly public land that has no paved roads, no signs to point the way, and where you are a long, long way from help.  A place few have heard of, and only a handful will ever visit.

A truly wonderful place for the adventurous.

I made the drive out and found the high desert grasslands were in their typical dry and dusty conditions.  There was also the severe clear that one often finds out this direction.  That would make for no sunset but I hoped that would in turn, make for a good chance at the Milky Way at 0300 in the morning.

I did a hike across the mesa and around some lonely mountains.  Occasionally I even snapped a photo although the light was harsh.
As evening settled in with zero clouds I got to my camping spot and would be close to me selected spot for the Milky Way.  I took a few pictures of the sunset light and probably deleted 98% almost immediately.

As dark settled in, I crawled into my Honda Element which was set up in camping mode, stretched out and slept.  By 0300 the next morning I was up and going.  I walked up a small hill with some ocotillo on top and an angle of view to the southeast.

The Milky Way was rising in the sky just as I had hoped and I set about making images of the scene in front of me.

I had brought both my A7R and A7S and was working both on two tripods.  Photographing with two cameras is very tough, but possible at night as the longer exposures give you time to go from one to the other.  However you stay busy and I always worry about kicking a tripod in the dark.

The ocotillo made some interesting foreground subjects that I did some light painting on.  I also did narrower images where I precluded any foreground and just combined the Milky Way and surrounding mountain peaks.

Before I knew it, the night was fading and dawn was approaching.

The image that I had previsualized was there and I was able to get it.  I had a good shot and it was off across dusty roads toward Van Horn, Marfa, and Big Bend.

Thursday, July 21, 2016

Great Salt Lake in Winter

In January I had the opportunity to be in Salt Lake City for a couple of nights.  Me being me, I took my camera and tripod with the hopes of getting out to the Great Salt Lake for a sunset or sunrise.

As luck would have it I got to do both!

Since I was going to be staying a little north of SLC I thought getting out to Antelope Island would be a good destination.  Boy did I pick the right spot.

The island is in the Great Salt Lake and a state park.  I had visited once before during gnat season at the end of April now I was going back with snow on the ground.

As I made the drive across the causeway road to the island I entered a winter wonderland.  The view toward the island across patches of snow, water, and maybe some ice too toward the mountainous island and distant ranges beyond looked almost like those images you see from Antarctica.  It certainly was a far different look than I had seen before.

I only had about an hour to sunset and so headed out to an area I knew had a view west and north across a bay with more mountains.

I got there and to the lakes edge with just a few minutes to sunset.  I had brought my Sony A7R and adapted Nikon 20, 50, and 100mm lenses as it makes a very small kit.

I worked with all three.

The light was bright but there were in essence zero clouds in the sky.  So I stated wide and then as the sunset went to a narrower view.  The view north had some great compositional elements and the longer lens and polariser to help make the scene pop some.

It was a good way to end a day.

I was up early the next morning and decided to go back.  I arrived with the stars and moon still in the sky and went back to the same area.  It would put the mountains between me and the sunrise but I liked the location and hoped it would be good.

At first I got a few images lit by the moon.  Then as the night faded I got a few more images.  I stayed there until the light was getting closer to sunrise and the clear sky looked like I had already seen the best light.

I drove across the island to see the view back toward SLC with some low clouds and fog in the sky and I was able to set up a quick composition as the sun was rising over the mountains lighting up the fog into a great scene.

Shortly thereafter I was on the road out of the park with a full day of activities to accomplish.

A sunset and a sunrise.  Neither very long but enough to make a few nice images and have a great experience.